It’s the same way a steak house stores choice cuts of beef, a process that evaporates internal water to concentrate flavor and soften tissue. In place of traditional refrigeration, Hemsley is using dry agers to store much of his fish. “We really try to get fish on everything, even dessert,” Hemsley said. This results in an umami-rich sauce that goes on crudo items, seasons some cooked dishes and can even be used on sweets like chocolate.
Staff take leftover parts from fish, add plenty of salt and koji, the mold used to create soy sauce, to make a reaction that breaks down the matter over the course of a few weeks. That includes creating fish sauces in-house from leftover bones and bits in an effort to eliminate all fish waste.
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